canaries

10 Reasons to visit La Palma

Hi all,

Happy New Year and welcome back to the Travel Blog. This is going to be the first post this year, but it’s actually recapping a trip we did at the end of last year. The decision to visit La Palma was based on out previous trips to Lanzarote and La Graciosa in 2017. Canaries are a great winter break destination, there are very affordable flights, cheap accommodations and amazing landscapes. The canaries have gotten quite a reputation for being a mass tourist destination primarily for the elderly generation. So hopefully the next 10 paragraphs will convince you that La Palma is quite the opposite than an overcrowded old people holiday resort.

 

1. Roque de los Muchachos

Probably one of the most popular spots on the islands for sunset hunters and astro photographers. The streets climb from sea level to almost 2500m and the view is absolutely stunning. The road goes all the way to the top, so no need for extended hiking. It’s a fantastic location for sunrise, sunset and night sky photography. Just bear in mind that in order to reduce light pollution in the area the road that leads to the top closes at around 8pm (there are a lot of observatories).

2. Charco Azul

One of the most picturesque natural pools on the island. Charco Azul has a variety of natural ponds and pools that can be entered very safely. There’s also walls to protect swimmers from the ocean swell. Come here in the early morning and you’ll have the whole site for yourself.

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3. Puerto de Santo Domingo

Great place for a picnic and to watch the sunset. There’s a short climb down to the beach, however when we went there the ocean waves were far to big and scary for swimming. The view along the coast is pretty spectacular though.

4. Playa La Vetta

Charming little fishing village right at the waterfront. There are steps and a rough path for about 2 miles that will take you down the cliffs. Very few tourists know about this place and even less people can be bothered to hike all the way down. So chances are quite high you’ll get another private sunset. Careful if it’s getting dark on the way up, there are some steeper passages as well as an unlit tunnel, if you’re planning on staying late consider bringing some flashlights.

5. Prois de Candelaria

Romantic little fishing village carved into the cliffs, feels very much like a secret pirate shelter. Most of the houses were empty and there were almost no people there. Very cool afternoon hike (~1.5miles one way), there are also some natural pools to go for a swim.

6. Playa de Nogales

One of the famous black sand beaches. It’s about 1 mile down from the car park. Great for sunrise and early mornings. Not busy at all.

7. Playa Echentive

Playa Echentive is a reminder of La Palma’s volcanic past. The beach is only a few decades old and a reminiscence of a volcanic eruption in 1971. It’s entirely covered in black sand and surrounded by fields of sharply hardened lava. Great spot for swimming and sunsets.

8. Mirador de Los Brechitos & Cascada de Los Colores

There are many ways to see the Mirador de Los Brechitos and the Cascada de Los Colores, but here’s how we did it:

We arrived at the parking at the bottom of Mirador de Los Brechitos at about 11am. From there taxis will drive you to the top of the mountain, which is also the starting point for the hike. Taxis charge around 50€ for 4 people and the drive takes about 20min. (No need to book, there are usually a few taxis waiting)

From the top of Mirador de Los Brechitos it’s around 9miles back down to the car park, including the detour to the Cascada de Los Colores. The path is very well signed but goes through quite steep terrain so you should definitely bring good hiking shoes. There’s a campground at the halfway point with some facilities and a little shop. Including a few brakes the whole hike took us about 4hrs, so remember to bring enough water and food.

9. Ruta de los Volcanes 

Ruta de los Volcanes is a network of paths and treks in the Cumbre Vieja National Park in the south of the island. Some of the routes have a rise of more than 1000m, with the summit at an impressive altitude of almost 2000m above sea level. It’s a slightly more difficult hike through natural terrain but the view from the crater is definitely worth the effort.

10. Cascada de Los Tilos

The gorge through the Cascada de Los Tilos exhibits a completely different side of La Palma. Lush green rain forest hanging from steep cliffs, refreshing waterfalls and shallow rivers are very different to what you would generally expect from the Canaries. You can hike through the canyon and its riverbed for around 1.5 miles, depending on the rainfall and weather conditions the water levels might vary. Great fun an very picturesque.

A few general tips for La Palma:

  • A car really helps, you’re going to be much more flexible. Particularly the beaches are very difficult to access and the roads quite steep, so a car will make your life a lot easier. There are buses but these mostly connect the more touristy spots.

  • Also some of the mountains are quite high in altitude and nights up there can get pretty chilly, so make sure to bring some warm jackets.

  • Paths are usually quite safe and well signed, but can get quite steep sometimes. So I would recommend to always bring appropriate shoes. And don’t forget enough water.

  • We went to La Palma in November, which is absolute off season. Therefore most spots and sites are quite empty, also you will get very good deals for flights and accommodations.

Hope you found these tips and suggestions helpful. If you have any questions please get in touch. If you want to find out more about our previous trips to the Canaries check out my posts about Lanzarote and La Graciosa.

For more frequent updates please follow us on Instagram and Twitter.

See you soon!

The Canaries Diary Part II: La Graciosa

Hello again,

welcome back to Part II of the Canaries Diary. Here's a link to Part I and all the things we did on Lanzarote

We spend the night in Orzola on Lanzarote before getting up at sunrise to take the ferry to La Graciosa. It's one of the northern islands of the Canaries and also one of the smallest inhabited part of the archipelago. Only about 700 people live permanently on the island, most live from tourism. There are no roads on La Graciosa, the only way to get around is by foot or to hire one of the 4x4 taxis. 

 

The first thing we noticed when we got of the ferry was the wind. Particularly around the harbour the wind blows violently through the little village. Since we didn't have time for breakfast we went to the first cafe which happened to be the only cafe in town. The entire town is pretty small, you can easily walk from on end to the other in less than 10 minutes. There's a little supermarket, a few restaurants and shops. 

After checking into our AirBnb ("Quiet apartment in La Graciosa Island") for the night we decided to take a tour around the island. Tours are offered by locals and usually start at the harbour and const about 50€. We shared the tour with a few others so it ended up being less that 10€ per person. The tour takes you pretty much all around the whole island, stopping at all the most popular sights. 

The highlight of the tour is definitely Playa De Las Conchas on the southern side of the island. It's very remote and hence not many people get there. It was probably one of the best experiences of the entire trip, we even came back later to watch the sunset.

The next day started a little less windy, so after breakfast and coffee we decided to hike up one of the volcanic mountains close to Playa De Las Conchas. They're not very high, but steep and the ground is very slippery. The view on top is absolutely worth it. 

To sum up the experience on La Graciosa, it feels a lot further away from Europe than Lanzarote. There are no tour busses or hotels, most of the tourists are backpackers. Especially after 5pm when the last ferry to Lanzarote left the island turns quiet. The weather and landscape is a lot rougher, the waves bigger and the currents stronger. The whole islands feels a lot more african than european. For me La Graciosa was definitely the highlight of the whole trip. 

If you liked this post make sure you also check out my post about Lanzarote. Also swing by my Instagram and Twitter for more regular pictures and updates. 

See you soon,

Tobi

The Canaries Diary Part I: Lanzarote

Hi all,

if you do an online search for the most popular and "hip" travel destinations of 2017 Lanzarote most likely wouldn't be on top of the results. And honestly I was in the same mindset. The only people I know who have been to the Canaries are my grandparents few years back. The reason we went there was mostly the lack of time and options, also the flights from London are a bargain in November. 

Today I've been back for about 3 weeks and I'm glad I went on this trip and overcame my prejudices.  Lanzarote has so many amazing and seemingly untouched gems waiting to be discovered, far away from mainstream tourism and tour busses. So don't get fooled by online reviews, Lanzarote is a unique and exiting place, only a few hours away from London.

The Canary Islands are a Spanish archipelago just off the northern coast of Africa. The most popular ones are Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria and finally Lanzarote, the most eastern island of the Canaries. According to Wikipedia they are among the outermost regions of the EU. And indeed this becomes very apparent once you start leaving the main cities: All Islands are the reminisces of a volcanic eruption hundreds of years ago. The landscape literally turns into fields of hardened lava. 

 

Walking on lava

Lanzarote's violent past becomes already quite visible when you approach the island's airport. From the air you can clearly see craters and broken up slopes, relicts of massive eruptions in the past. The landscapes are vast and deserted, only under closer inspections revealing signs of nature slowly fighting its way back up through the solidified fields of lava. 

The black beaches

One of the most beautiful phenomena happened when over decades the solid lava got washed into the ocean and formed beaches with black sand. The blue ocean, the breaking waves and the black sand create some stunning colours.

Climb the cliffs

It's hard to miss the cliffs overlooking Famara Beach at the most norther end of Lanzarote. Roads are steep and mostly gravel at the ends, but the view is way worth it. Park your car at the Park El Bosquecillo and search for Cueva de Las Cabras, you won't be dissapointed!

Go Surfing

One of the best ways to experience the waves of the Atlantic Ocean it to go surfing. The most popular spot is Famara Beach in the north of Lanzarote. The beach is very safe with moderate waves, lifeguards and surf schools. We rented boards and wetsuits at lanzarotekite just a few hundred meters from the shore, prices are really cheap and staff friendly.

Take a bath

The natural pools are probably one of Lanzarote's best kept secrets, and it took us quite a while to find them. Located at the south of the islands, follow a pretty bumpy dirt road until you see an abandoned building. This used to be a hotel back in the 60s and 70s, there are very few sources on what this place actually is. Today it largely seems like a place for homeless and graffiti artists. We parked our car just outside the building.

We walked through a few holes in the fences and ignored the "Do not enter" warning signs. There's an undeniably weird vibe in the air, and the structure definitely didn't feel safe. So we left on the rear side of the hotel through what used to be courtyard, climbed through another fence and went towards the cliffs.        

The pools on the other side are just gorgeous. Carefully climb down the cliffs and make sure the tide is pretty low. Unfortunately when we arrived the tide was already rising again and big waves started to roll over the pools. So we only took a quick bath and snapped a few pictures before climbing back up. The currents are incredibly powerful, so please be careful and always have someone watching the incoming waves. 

 
 

This concludes Part I of our trip to the Canaries, hope you enjoyed the pictures. If you want to get a sneak peak of what's coming next, check out my Instagram and Twitter for daily updates and travel pictures. Click here to jump straight to Part II: La Graciosa.

Tobi